Видео

Thank you Andrew.

Thank you Barry

The head loss in a 15mm pipe to a shower is very low and increasing to 22mm simply risks air entrapment. This video will be of interest to you if you have not seen it before. ruclips.net/video/C4UTxVa00iA/видео.htmlsi=BTfXwHKcy_WmaUA_ There is loads of information on the ShowerPowerBooster .co.uk or you can phone Flowflex.

If you have mains pressure cold then you are better to double boost the the hot with a SP21S. showerpowerbooster.co.uk/product/sp21s-pair-shower-power-boosters-double-boost/ Each pump is a half bar pump so two half bar pumps in series gives you 0.5 + 0.5 = 1 bar. Most shower mixers will work with a hot vs cold imbalance of up to 5 to 1 so the mixer will be balanced enough to work perfectly. A SP21S IS PERFECT FOR YOU.

I used to ship to Malta but since Brexit the only way to get product to EU customers is for you to buy in the UK and carry it yourself through customs. You can import up to £185 of personal goods legally when you return to Malta.

From experience when you have a bath mixer it is always best to boost the hot and the cold. Assuming you have gravity hot and cold you need a SP22S.

@@alandwright2 hi Alan, thanks for getting back to me. Yes it's a gravity system I have so I'll order two bumps.

They work in Cyprus. Your tanks in Cyprus are normally on the roof and therefore the cold pressure is normally better than in the Uk. A SP21S double boost on the hot only, is probably best.

It needs to pump from the hot side to the cooler side so the direction of flow is important and it also replaces the lock shield. The pump can be rotated to pump in either direction.

During every 24 hour day there are times when there is surplus energy and on the National Grid and the idea is to use that energy. Potable Water Stratification Device This device will store energy at times when demand is low in Spring, Summer, Autumn, and Winter. There are always periods of low demand irrespective of the energy source. This is a device best suited for retrofitting to an existing hot water cylinder so homes with hot water cylinders are likely to be potential customers. This device is even better suited for customers who have personal solar PV and hot water cylinders so that they can store their own surplus energy during periods of sunlight and also store surplus grid energy overnight. Primary Sales Targets for the Potable Water Stratification Device Customers with Hot Water Cylinders Customers with PV Panels with surplus Summer PV Generation Customers with PV Panels and Hot Water Cylinders Organisations wishing to achieve grid stabilisation Water Stratification Device plus Radiator Flow Boosters The water stratification device together with the radiator booster gives the potential to significantly reduce use of gas and oil in the Winter only. Demand for heating can only replace fossil fuels if renewable energy (in particular wind power), is increased to supply Winter demand. Increased reliance on renewables will create an imbalance in the grid supply however the potable water stratification device can absorb this surplus energy in the Summer. Primary Sales Targets New build to avoid the need for investment in new gas pipelines. New build to avoid the need for gas and oil boilers.

@@alandwright2 I fully understand what you are attempting to do, I had a 200L system installed on my heating circuit that was charged by solar excess (immersun), but there was insufficient solar excess in late autumn, winter and early spring. So, the question remains, during these periods where does the 200kWh com from to recharge (reheat) the 4 cubic metres of cold water? to heat 1000kg (one cubic metre) of water from 20C to 60C takes 46kWh, you need 184kWh to heat 4 cubic metres, where do you get those without a heat source?

​@@GlueChubeas he states in the video, from the resistance element. Not so elegantly explained, but understandable if you want to. The energy comes from electrical energy when the price is low due to access power on the grid. If you have an electric boiler with two heating elements, you can get the same results with a computer controlled switch on the bottom element. I am currently moving the heating of water to the cheapest time of day, I save a small amount of money due to the boiler is only used for hot tap water.

​@@MichaelEricMenk Of course I understand that an immersed resistive heating element is used to convert electrical energy to heat energy in the cylinder. My question is, where you get the 180kWh of excess (surplus) renewable energy to reheat the 4 cubic metres? Of course you can heat the water at night with night time off-peak electricity in a boiler, but that is not what is being said,.... he's talking about using surplus renewable. Few have wind, the vast, vast majority of domestic renewable is PV, which don't have that over capacity! He is states that any time in a 24 hr period you can feed this stored hot water into the CH rads, TRUE,.... when you expend that heat in 24 hrs, which is 100% certain in many 24 or even 48hr periods, you need to find 180kWh of excess electrical energy for the day after. NOT possible with 99.99% of domestic renewable generators, wind, solar or hydro.

The 200kWh can be found at night when supply exceeds demand. Technologies in my home include: • 8 M2 of solar panels with an amazing and novel micro pump driven solar thermal operating system. • 32 M2 of photo voltaic solar panels. • 5.5 KW Wood Burner (Scrap wood offcuts). • 13.5 KW/Hr Tesla PowerWall. • 500 litre (29 KW/Hr heat store), hot water cylinder with micropumps to link Solar Thermal, Solar Photovoltaic, Wood Burner, Gas Boiler, and Tesla battery store for optimum heat storage. • 4,500 litres of stored rain water delivered at high pressure using micro pumps. At night I use cheap rate electricity at 7.5p KWHr to fully charge my Tesla Power Wall and during the day I sell every spare KW of electricity I generate to Octopus I do not use the Solar PV Energy I generate to heat water.

The device is in production and will be available in March 2024. Phone 01298 77211 for further details

I am sorry but until we can enter a licence agreement with a manufacturer in the USA I cannot sell to you.

Its fully automatic - it only runs when you run water

Do not use a pressure equalising valve. Either double boost the hot with a SP21S or install a simple 1/4 turn valve which should cost less than £2.00

This may make you smile:- showerpowerbooster.co.uk/blog/replacing-combi-boilers-with-green-solutions/

@@alandwright2 thanks it did!!!

The V1 and V2 boost a couple of radiators that fail to get hot and not an entire system.

You can get two automatic pumps to work separately which is fine if you want a very hot shower or a very cold shower but in the middle the temperature and pressures will surge hot and cold. To stop this you need the 4 way cable.

correct. the automatic one needs a flow of water to activate it. if you have negative head, then there is no flow of water to activate the automatic one. so you would have to use a manual one.

You should already have mains pressure cold at a kitchen sink and the normal solution is to have a double boost SP21S on the hot to balance mains pressure. Contact me through showerpowerbooster.co.uk and I will be happy to help.

Yes it would but go for a double boost SP21S.😀

Put a SP21S on the hot before the mixer. My pumps are designed not to pull water or at least to have very little pull plus the boost after the mixer will be very much less than before the mixer. Its just science.

Send some pictures and I will help you. Visit showerpowerbooster.co.uk for my contact details.☺

The best thing to do if its mains pressure cold is to double boost the hot with a SP21S:- showerpowerbooster.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/FlowflexShowerManual_21_03_23-NEW.pdf

@@alandwright2 Thanks for the reply. There is room for one under the bath, two might be difficult I think, so I will try with one.

It would work but not as well as the new stratification pump I invented - Pat Pending and still under wraps.

A normal pump might draw air from a vent pipe but the ShowerPowerBooster is designed not to pull in air. It never pulls in air, it never needs a Surrey flange.

How do I purchase one please Alan?

I design the SPB to give a single good tap or shower flow. If you have many showers each one needs a pump. If each jet had a pump then it would work.

@@alandwright2 Thanks, I should have been clearer though. The shower takes in the water flow from the hot and cold and then diverts it from the main unit via the internal mixer, there would be no way to install the SPB to each individual jet as it's all controlled by the main unit. Fitting to the inlet feeds would solve my problem, I just don't know if your product is suitable for unvented systems.

@@lostunsunghero We sell lots of SPBs to people with unvented cylinders however for your shower I think it needs a lot of water. The ShowerPowerBooster is an amazing device, it can boost any and all plumbing systems, but it cannot perform miracles. The SPB will always fix a pressure problem but if you simply want a better shower flow and you already have a good shower or tap flow the ShowerPowerBooster will recognise you already have a good shower and deactivate. showerpowerbooster.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/FlowflexShowerManual_21_03_23-NEW.pdf

Read this guide carefully but there are no negative effects. showerpowerbooster.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/FlowflexShowerManual_25_01_23-NEW.pdf

Go to ShowerPowerBooster.co.uk and download the information manual using the link on the front page and that will tell you all you need to know.

The head loss in the shower head is significant the higher the flow and each shower head is different. For my shower heads for instance once you get to 6 litres a minute and you need to push hard to get more flow. The head loss in a 10mm hose is very low at 6 litres a minute so making the hose bigger to 15mm+ makes very little difference as half of very head loss makes no real difference so making a shower hose bigger than 10mm is not worth it. Running a bath at say 20 litres a minute and 10mm is too small, 15mm is to small, 22mm is what you need. The head loss is is proportional to the speed of the water which is determined by the area of the pipe and the flow.